Low-key vibes and adventures await in this sleepy Caribbean beach town. Here’s where to stay and what to do while in Patillas.
Along Puerto Rico’s southeastern coast, Patillas–the Emerald of the South–is a coastal mountain town about 1.5 hours from the airport in San Juan. It’s a great place to spend time hiking, swimming, snorkeling, and eating–and you will find little about this town of 19,000 in any guidebook because it’s just too small. We went there in March 2023 for family spring break, and we are definitely going back. Here’s why.
Where to Stay in Patillas
My family of four stayed in an Airbnb right across from the beach along Route 3. This two-bedroom beach house had a pool, a small kitchen, and a great play area on the ground level that was perfect for us. For three nights, we used it as the staging area for our adventures along the coast and into the mountains. The beach across the street was rocky and not terribly inviting, but it was a beach. There are plenty of Airbnb and VRBO options along the coast, but hotels are scarce and two-star at best. I recommend finding a house to rent. For three nights during March, our cost was $1,160 in 2023.
Eat and Beach in Patillas
One of the highlights of our stay was stumbling onto one of the local beaches that came to life on a Sunday afternoon. We booked a last-minute snorkel tour and the guides had us meet them at Playa Villa Pesquera. Make sure to check out the drone footage video below. Our guides were great but the snorkeling wasn’t the best. Unfortunately, Puerto Rico declared a state of emergency in 2021 because its reefs are dying. But we worked up enough of an appetite snorkeing to eat at Rancho de Papi right across the street from the beach. We ordered every kind of empanada on the menu and each one was delicious. No one spoke English and my kids still talk about the charades we had to play to find out what was in each one. To work off lunch, we wandered east down the street and followed a trail that led us right into Reserva Natural Punta Del Viento. We walked past mangrove swamps and found a quiet deserted beach. Later in our trip, we tried Musafa restaurant because of the rave reviews, but we walked away disappointed.
Hike the Charco Azul Trail
A not-so-secret but still great hike is to the swimming hole known as Charco Azul (blue pool). This fresh-water swimming hole is about 40 feet across and fed by a small waterfall. We went on a weekday, and there were maybe a dozen visitors at any one time. Most didn’t swim, but we did. The kids loved it, and painted themselves in clay. It isn’t developed, meaning there are no restrooms or picnic areas. It hasn’t been rebuilt since Hurricane Maria. But the hike from the parking area is only a half-mile and well-marked. The drive there from the beach was worth it because you go through neighborhoods and the countryside. Be sure to download the route from Google Maps prior to leaving town. Cell service is poor.
Downsides to Patillas
While Patillas was fun, there are a few things to note. First, the locals love their party buses. Apparently, Route 3 is a major party bus route, which is truly entertaining to watch and feel. We could hear the bass long before the flourescent glow of the buses passed by the Airbnb. They like to stay up late. Second, Patillas is only a short drive away from Dead Dog Beach. The area is a dumping ground for unwanted dogs. The vacant lot across the highway from our rental was not immune. We watched as a litter of pups followed their mom as they scavenged for scraps of food. Stray dogs are a real problem for the island and Hurricane Maria worsened the problem after it hit in 2017.
No place is perfect, but if you’re looking for a laid back beach town that is 100% authentic Puerto Rico (and away from hoardes of tourists), put Patillas on your list. It’s worth a look.
