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    • Red Deer or Elk: What’s the Difference?
    • Why an Overnight River Trip Is the Ultimate Summer Adventure
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    • Best Cartridges for North American Big Game Hunting
  • Home
  • About
  • Hunting
    • Guns
      • Best Cartridges for North American Big Game Hunting
      • Yes, I Do Teach My Kids to Shoot Guns…Here’s Why
      • The Best Youth Rifles for Deer and Big Game
      • How to Clean a Hunting Rifle: A Step-by-Step Guide
    • Backcountry Hydration Guide: How to Purify Water for Hunting and Camping
    • Hunting and Acute Mountain Sickness (Altitude Sickness): Signs, Symptoms, and Avoidance 
    • Hunters Need a New Ad Agency  
    • Randy Newberg: Here’s How to Hunt Elk Out West On Your Own
    • Luck of the Draw: How to Apply for Hunting Tags  
    • When, Where, and How to Find Shed Antlers
    • Chuck Adams: Interview With the World’s Greatest Bowhunter
    • Peer Pressure: How to Deal with Social Media and Hunting Season 
    • The Biggest Whitetail Deer in the Record Book: In Photos
    • The Biggest Moose Ever on Record: In Photos
    • How to Score a Deer
    • Cool Story, Bro: How to Write a Hunting Story
    • 10 Best Books on Hunting
    • The Hunter’s Guide to Preventing Tick and Mosquito Bites 
    • How to Make Perfect Deer Jerky the Easy Way
    • Wild Game Recipe: Venison Enchilada Meatballs
    • How to Keep Wild Game Meat Clean in the Field
  • Fishing
    • Your Guide to a Surviving a Family Fishing Trip 
    • How to Fish for Trout in Alpine Lakes
    • Fishing for Moose at Hachet Lake Lodge, Saskatchewan
    • Best Fishing Books and Stories Ever
    • How to Catch Trout in A River
  • Legends of the West
    • Marie Dorion: Tough Momma of Willamette Valley
    • African American Mountain Man James Beckwourth
    • George Drouillard—Lewis and Clark’s Backcountry Renaissance Man
    • Montana Pioneer Woman Stagecoach Mary Fields
    • Hugh Glass: The Real Revenant Badass
    • The Surly Life of Jeremiah “Livereatin’ ” Johnson
    • John Wesley Powell: Badass Explorer of the Grand Canyon
    • John Colter: First White Dude to See Yellowstone’s Hell on Earth
    • Who Was Mountain Man Jim Bridger?
    • African American Mountain Man James Beckwourth
    • Jedediah Smith: Grizzly Wrestling Champion of the World
    • Andrew Garcia: Montana’s Last Best Mountain Man
  • The Wild Life
    • Kids
      • Epic Outdoor Books for Kids
      • The Reality of Skiing With Kids—Is it Worth it? 
      • Six Tips for a Family Fishing Trip in the Florida Keys
      • How to Get Kids Outside…Montana Edition
      • Yes, I Do Teach My Kids to Shoot Guns…Here’s Why
      • Don’t Do This When Fishing with Kids
    • Travel
      • Why You Should Never Go to Yellowstone National Park 
      • Bozeman, Montana: How to Ruin a Perfectly Good Mountain Town
      • Maui Guide: Five Essential Tips to Know Before You Go 
      • 20 Questions About Puerto Rico…Answered 
      • Patillas, Puerto Rico: A Guide to the Perfect Day
    • Red Deer or Elk: What’s the Difference?
    • Why an Overnight River Trip Is the Ultimate Summer Adventure
    • Squirrel Warriors: The Art of Tiny Taxidermy 
    • Five Ways to Keep Your Off-grid Cabin Secure
    • Chef Kristy Crabtree on Cooking with Wild Game
    • Cure Cabin Fever by Renting a Forest Service Cabin
    • #Buglife
    • Picking Huckleberries in Montana: A Guide with Easy Recipes
    • Load Up With Royal Tine: Montana’s Hunting Guide School
    • The Best Dog Mushing in Montana
  • Conservation
    • Back from the Dead: Montana Bighorn Sheep Restoration
    • Montana’s Bighorn Sheep Tags: Big Horns, Big Money
    • Montana’s Love Affair with Invasive Species
    • The Mission Mountain Wilderness Divide
  • Gear
    • LaCrosse Ursa MS Boots: An Honest Review
    • Five Father’s Day Gifts Under $100…and they don’t suck
    • How to Clean Leather Boots in 30 Minutes
    • Muck’s Apex Pro Vibram Arctic Grip Boot: An Honest Review 
    • Best Cartridges for North American Big Game Hunting
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Home Legends

John Colter: First White Explorer of Yellowstone

by PJ DelHomme
in Legends
John Colter Yellowstone Colter's Hell

1774-1813

Colter’s Early Life With the Lewis and Clark Expedition

John Colter was as mountain man as a man could be. By all accounts, he used up his nine lives a few times over exploring Montana, including being forced to wade into the Missouri to out-maneuver a pursuing grizzly. For $5/month, he enlisted in Lewis and Clark’s Corps of Discovery in his early 30s, proving himself a competent hunter and interpreter. Colter even got out of building Fort Clatsop, being told to hunt elk along the Oregon Coast instead. On his way back east with Lewis and Clark, Colter got permission to leave the expedition and join two trappers in Montana and Wyoming. In 1807, he ventured solo exploring the Grand Tetons during the coldest months of a Rocky Mountain winter. 

Colter helped build a fort at the mouth of the Bighorn River in present-day Montana, and he made the first reports of hell on earth (geysers and fumaroles) around Yellowstone National Park. The tales became known as Colter’s Hell, because at the time, no one believed him.

Map of John Colter's wandering

Colter’s Hell: Yellowstone’s Geysers

When Colter stumbled across a smoldering landscape so bizarre and rotten-smelling, he couldn’t believe his eyes. These boiling pools, spitting fumaroles, and scorched earth at the mouth of Wyoming’s Stinkingwater River would be too much for anyone to take in for the first time. Long before it was mapped out or even believed, Colter’s tales of the Yellowstone area set a new standard for tall stories, describing a wild scene of fire and brimstone no easterner could imagine. For Colter, it was hell on earth—hot, strange, and just real enough to put his name in the history books. And while his stories were that of legend, his biggest claim to fame is known as Colter’s Run. 

Colter's Hell, Yellowstone National Park
This is what Colter’s Hell looks like today in Yellowstone National Park. It’s a new kind of hell for people who don’t appreciate horde tourism.

Colter’s Run: Escape from the Blackfeet

Colter knew the area near the three forks of the Madison, Jefferson and Gallatin Rivers, which form the Missouri River, was prime beaver country. He also knew the Blackfeet Indians would do anything to keep trappers out of the area, but the temptation of a big pay-day was too much to resist. Inevitably, Colter and his partner, John Potts, were surrounded by several hundred Blackfeet while trapping on the Jefferson.

Potts tried to paddle away and was instantly filled with bullets and arrows. Colter put his paddle down and surrendered. He was then stripped of clothes and shoes and told to run, which he did. Warriors gave chase and he managed to escape by out running all but one (he killed that warrior and stole his blanket). He then jumped into the river and clung to a log jam with only his nose breaching the surface. His pursuers gave up and he walked 200 miles east back to the trading fort he helped build. After moving back east to Missouri and settling down into family life, he died of jaundice around age 40.

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